This is all assuming you are charging a house battery and keeping the 12v system separate. voltage because you want it charging whenever the engine is on. If you only have a small array to assist, you would not need to regulate alt. I do want it to come online when the solar is only producing about 60%, so I need to find that voltage and make it the secondary source. I have 800w on the roof and don't want the alt. 12 / 24 Amperage: 105 Condition: New Fan Location: External Regulator Location: Internal. In your case, you would want to regulate the Alt. WITH INVERTER 12/24 VOLT ALTERNATOR/ GENERATOR/STARTER TESTER 8,030.00. WITH INVERTER 12/24 VOLT ALTERNATOR/ GENERATOR/STARTER TESTER 8,800.00. We put the switch inline as we found the higher voltage from the 24v was backfeeding the 12v. WITH INVERTER 12/24 VOLT ALTERNATOR/ GENERATOR/STARTER TESTER 8,250.00. In my case I am using to up converters in parallel with backflow protection on the outputs. 12v alternator with an inline push to make switch. The system would have the solar and the DC charger in parallel inputs the the controller. It should fit OEM models for Delco and is part of the Delco 30SI Family of alternators. Growatt makes a 24v inverter charger that is about $700. The Delco 400-12038 is a 12/24V, 105A, high output, alternator. for the solar, so the 24v alt I bought never was used. I have played with all of this, but went 48v. Just seems more efficient and rather simplified once completed and eliminating more "gadgets to provide sufficient auxiliary charging to house batteries but again, I have zero experience with all this solar tech. Fabing up a bracket to mount is no problem for me since I have all the tooling to do so. I have fully deleted the a/c system so I have a spot to add a second 24 volt alternator to charge the house batteries, and the prices for these 24 volt units are very reasonable from DP. My thought was that an auxiliary 24 volt alternator would be the most efficient but again, having never built a system I am only guessing. I have read thru many many posts here and see many opinions and methods, 12-24 dc step up converter, orion 12-24 dc charger, inverter to charger, etc. I am going with 24 volt solar and would like to utilize engine power to add an additional source of charging. My build out will be an as-I-go project so I would like to buy and build once and not change too much as I go along. My knowledge is limited and experience is zero so I have been compiling notes on how- to's and why's. Is the exciter circuitry independent of and unrelated to the voltage regulator?Īnyway, I look forward to returning to Aletes in a few weeks to pursue this and would like to be as knowledgeable as possible if you have any thoughts.Been utilizing the search function for many hours getting a good education on solar and charging solutions.Is the control logic for this fault light any more complicated than that? This probably indicates that the 24v alternator was not yet producing 24v. I have noticed that the alternator fault light on the 24v panel historically stayed on after starting the engine while at low rpm, but generally went out after a small increase in throttle.Is it the case that the 24 alternator would be “self-exciting” after generating 24v? If so, is that “self-exciting” dependent on rpm? And if so would this relay drop out the external 12v power for the exciter?.Since the 24v alternator is not producing 24v at startup, is the 24v alternator exciter circuit initially powered by the 12v battery (simultaneous with the 12v alternator), or by the 12v alternator after it is producing its 13.5v? There could be a design theory that the 24v alternator is excited by and only AFTER the 12v alternator is producing 13+ volts thereby reducing startup load slightly. We have designed this dynamo especially for the 2H and 12H-T 40 Ampre and 24 volt motors.Any insights you have on the following would be helpful. The internet is not providing much relative to exciter theory or engines with both 12v and 24v systems. You state that this is an electric vehicle project. Most modern converters are very efficient. Either find one with the correct output voltage, or get a DC-DC converter to step up the 12v to 48v. I cannot find any circuit diagrams for this and I am not at the boat to trace the circuitry. Rewind is VERY difficult unless you already work at a motor rewind shop. I am still trying to understand the circuit logic for the exciter. I have not yet tracked the behavior of the fault light on the 24v panel in these various conditions. Then backing down rpm continue with 24v output until about 1200 rpm, and below that not. Operationally at this point, at startup we are not getting 24v alternator output until about 2000-2200 rpm.
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